Only a week left now until Christmas and still no sign so far of the return of the snow. After that big flurry in November, it has quite stubbornly refused to make a re-appearance and it is sorely missed as it often brightens up what is otherwise a very grey, drab month. It is still getting darker each day - in fact to call it daylight would be far too flattering a description. It is much more like a lingering dusk. Still, the winter solstice is only a few days away and after Lucia we know that the light will return.

Yesterday I spent a wonderful lunchtime stroll with Lars-Göran and the famous Lambi in Stockholm. We had a few specific gifts to buy for the kids, so we decided to also make a fun time of it by going to the Gamla Stan Julmarknad (the Christmas market in the Old Town). So we jumped on the tunnelbana and headed there.



I love wandering around Gamla Stan, with it's maze of narrow cobblestoned roads and lanes dotted with cafés, restaurants, artisans' galleries and antique shops. This is the original Stockholm and dates from the 13th century and it really is like going back in time. Looking around you, it isn't hard to imagine what everyday life must have been like for this city.

I chose to go along Östralånggatan as I prefer it to the more popular and crowded Västralånggatan. I was entranced by the simplicity of the natural Christmas decorations that enhanced the grace and beauty of the buildings. What a contrast to the tacky, tasteless flashing lights we are subjected to in Australia.



Taking a closer look at the shop, we discovered it was Tomtar & Troll, a magical place where they make trolls and tomtar (elves). We went inside and watched them making them in the workshop and admired the variety of these forest creatures on display. Though the most popular thing in the shop turned out to be Lambi! She was travelling in Lars-Göran's backpack as per usual and was spotted by a Japanese tour guide and suddenly poor L-G found himself posing along with the dog for photographs. It was quite funny. You can peep inside the shop through the window:



Charming, isn't it? We wandered along further and came to an amazing shop called Fartygsmagasinet. This is an Aladdin's cave treasure trove of historical fixtures and fittings from ships. It was gleaming with brass bells, lights, ship models and the intoxicating smell of tar ropes. It was rather hard to crowbar L-G away from here. A little further down we came to a café - thirsty work, all this walking around!



This tiny, cosy little café had a sign above it, stating that the building dates from 1480! I still can't get my head around the history of places like this. I come from such a "young" nation and it can be hard to believe that this was all here over 300 years before the First Fleet landed on the shores of Botany Bay in 1788. It is something that I discussed one day while walking in Stockholm with one of my Canadian friends. We were both spellbound by the architecture and age of the town, much to the bemusement of our Swedish partners to whom all of this is quite normal.

Another stop we made was at Galleri Hippo which had an exhibition of "The Horse in Art". There were several others that we also took a look in on our way through the town, along with several tiny shops selling wrought iron work and candles. One window at a travel agent really caught my attention:



This is of a building in the polish city of Krakow - quite an unusual sight to see in the far more dour setting of Stockholm. Many people were stopping to look at it. Then it was on to Storkyrkan.



This magnificant church was first built in the mid-1200s and is the site of coronations and royal weddings. The country's kings are also christened here. It lies just a few steps from our destination - Stortorget (the Great Square) and the Christmas Market. And what greeted me, but kids with fairy floss!



The market is nice, but lacks the charm of those we've been to at Utö and our own at Nynäshamn. It lacked some essential ingredient in the atmosphere. Lars-Göran felt that it was not the same without snow and that maybe it was more set up with an eye on the tourist market rather than a true christmas market. Certainly the place was full of tour groups and school kids on organised outings rather than the family and friends groups that you see at other markets. I also missed the sight and smell of stalls selling wreaths and trees.

The setting, though is magnificent with those old, historic buildings as a backdrop.



This plaza was not always the site of happiness. It marks the place where the infamous Stockholm Bloodbath took place in 1520, where Christian II of Denmark beheaded 80 Swedish nobels and displayed a pyramid of their heads in the centre. I don't think the Swedes have forgiven the Danes yet.

Today, the only red liquid on display was at the glögg stall. The little red wooden booths look so rustic along side of the elegant architecture around the square.



In the booths were a range of Christmas things. Stalls selling sausages, condiments, lollies, fairy-floss, wrought iron goods and decorations. I desperately wanted a wrought iron moose serviette holder, but L-G just gave me "the hairy eyeball" look, so I'll have to sneak it in some other way. I've added it to my Christmas wish list. One stall that I was really happy to see was that selling brända mandlar. This translates as "burnt almonds" but they are not burnt at all, just absolutely delicious! You can actually make your own easily and they are a popular nibble during the viewing of Kalle Anka on Christmas Eve.

Brända Mandlar

100 g blanched almonds
100 g icing sugar
125 ml water
1 drop red colouring (optional)

(I like to roast the almonds first, but you don't have to. I just pop them in an oven at 180C for a few minutes). Place water in a heavy-based saucepan, sprinkle over sugar and place over low heat. Keep stirring continuoulsly until the sugar mixture begins to thicken. Remove from heat. Add food colouring (optional). Stir in almonds and mix well. Spread out on baking paper, seperate the almonds with a fork and leave them to dry.

I had to buy a bag of these treats to munch on while I strolled around and looked at the stalls. The ones which really appealed to me were those with the traditional Swedish decorations:



These simple straw decorations, with their red ribbons are a real symbol of Swedish Christmas. I adore the little straw pigs the best and would like to have a whole family of them lined up at home. But I bet Bruce and Sheila would eat them. There were stars, goats, little human figures, angels and tomte. The kids loved it. The other stall that was jammed packed with kids was the one selling tomte.



I think he must be the most loved figure by children all over the world. The other loved figure at the markets was Lambi. The kids were all in love with the "little sweet poodle in a backpack" and poor L-G found himself looking like the Pied Piper with his trail of children following him around wanting to pat the dog.

We then moved off from the square and along Slottsbacken, heading to Östermalm.



To the left of the picture is The Royal Palace, leading down to the water, with the National Museum across the water at Södra Blasieholmshamnen. The weather was cold, but clear and dry, so it wasn't a trial to walk from here to Östermalmstorget, where we had to pick up a gift for L-G's son. The square was filled with Christmas tree and wreath stalls.



I just love those straw goats and pigs. They really add a bit of cheer to the scene, as do the lovely wreaths and the smell of the fresh pine, spruce and fir trees ready to be bought. I couldn't walk past here without a visit to Östermalms Saluhall. This place is a food-a-holics paradise. Think DJ's food hall on a bigger scale. The sights, sounds, colour, life and aroma of this place is uplifting. And what a superb building:



Inside you will find stalls selling a dizzying array of meat and poultry (including game), seafood, fruit, nuts, vegetables, bakeries, continental goodies (and my favourite wasabi peas), cheeses, chocolates, flowers, along with cafés, sushi. What most appealed was the smell of freshly baked vörtbröd. That is such a Christmas day smell and now I can hardly wait until next Friday.

Yes, I think that I'll be making (and eating) vörtbröd this weekend. Maybe before we head off to the Christmas concerts to "sing in Christmas" tomorrow.

And the weather service is predicting snow over the weekend.

Santa HAS heard my wishes after all.

Let's hope he remembers that moose serviette holder.