Overcast and drizzling today, but at least there is some wind and the clouds look like they are breaking up (albeit temporarily). I am stunned at the sheer number of low pressure systems queued up outside of Sweden from all directions just waiting to mosey on over and stay for a while. All of Sweden seems to be experiencing bad weather at the moment, with really heavy rain and flooding in the Småland region. What depressing weather for a "summer holiday".

Today we are going to pass by the island of Möja and take a look at the pretty archipelago group to the east of the island.

It is fairly uncomplicated sailing across to Möja and we got a chance to take a look at the western side of the island for a change, sailing into Hamnviken for a sticky beak.



It is amazing that the water just outside of this bay is 106m deep and still, close in to land it is 40m deep. But it is a very pretty bay and quiet even in July - a stark contrast to the frantic pace of harbour life on the east of the island (best avoided in July).

The Möja archipelago has no settlements on it and there are dozens of anchoring places along the beautiful waterways, but of course it begins to rain the microsecond we enter the archipelago. At first it is only a light shower, so we by pass the first couple of bays, looking for something nicer. Big mistake! Now it begins to pour - hard, cold and constant rain with mist that reduces visibility to next to zero in the tight canal we were travelling along Ramsmoraön. Somehow Lars-Göran managed to squeeze Fiona into a small bay, between a floating sauna "houseboat" and several underwater stones. After a tense time, the second the anchor was in place, the rain stopped! While I hung up all of our wet weather gear to dry outside, the two tired little teddy bears had a cat nap on the sofa.



Later on it was fine enough for Lars-Göran and his faithful companion to go out for an evening row. It's hard to believe that this was the same foggy, rain drenched bay that we entered a few hours before.




They also went over to check out the floating sauna anchored in the middle of the bay. It looks quite swish, with the sauna and shower area, a bathing platform and a bar and balcony to enjoy a drink and food. It looks like it can be hired out by groups and is open all year. Can you imagine it in winter? But then, Scandinavians will take a sauna anytime. I can't really see the attraction myself and this is one Swedish custom that I'm never likely to embrace.



After resting the next morning, we decide to head southwards again as the winds look favourable and the rain seems to be holding off. Our goal is to reach the archipelagoes south of Sandhamn. The sailing is good for the first few hours and we have no real trouble. As we approach the Sandhamn outer area, the winds pick up and get much colder. There are also strong waves outside the islands and Lambi starts to quiver again. As we'd have at least three hours of this if we head outside the protection of the islands, we opt to spend the night near Sandhamn. But not actually AT Sandhamn, which today looks like this:



It is loud, crowded and full of competition boats, announcements over loudspeakers and general chaos. We seem to have run into the regatta to celebrate the 175th anniversary of KSSS and the place is as packed as it was a few weeks ago. Just around the corner in the old township, life is at a more leisurely pace.



It is always a pleasure to leave the Sandhamn harbour in July behind us and head to a saner place.



I remembered a little protected bay that we stayed in just west of Sandhamn, around the corner of Getholmen. While we can't moor as close to the rocks as we did with our old boat, Olivia, which had a shallower draft, we do find a peaceful place to lay for the night.



The forecast winds tomorrow should allow us to go south east, so it will be back to the outer archipelago and hopefully better weather.