In sunny conditions but with stiff winds, we left Motala and ventured out for our first taste of sailing in Lake Vättern. We hadn't anticipated any real hassles as we'd studied the charts and knew that it was only about three hours sailing along to the town of Vadstena, a place that Lars-Göran has been keen to visit after he read somewhere that the guest harbour lies in the castle moat.

The winds out on the lake were considerably stronger than the forecast had led us to believe they'd be, so it was just as well that we'd reefed the mainsail as a precaution early in the piece. We had been warned by several people to be careful when coming out of Motala harbour and heading west - there are shoals on either side of the marked route and we were advised to stay well within the markers until we were safely out onto the lake. It was a little nervewracking in the windy conditions, but everything went smoothly and soon we were sailing along a lovely mosaic-like field of golden rapeseed, framed by the glittering, clear waters of the lake. The presence of wind generators is a clue to the power of the wind in this relatively flat landscape.




We were not able to sail to Vadstena directly as of course the wind was blowing from the wrong direction - as usual! So we headed a few nautical miles north west first, then tacked ninety degrees and headed in increasing wind and waves (and decreasing sunshine) towards the castle we could see in the distance. As we came closer to Vadstena, the wind was blowing at gale strength, our speed was increasing and we had difficulty finding the markers that led to the buoyed route into the harbour. At almost the last possible minute we found the first marker and soon we were able to glide in past the lighthouse, head up the narrow causeway and sail directly into the moat of the castle where we tied up for the evening. Vadstena Castle was built in Renaissance style by King Gustav Vasa in the 16th century as a defence against raids by the Danes. It felt really strange to look out of the boat and see the castle walls rising above us - certainly it's something very different.





One of the pleasures of taking this journey is the ability to drop into these wonderful inland, historical places. When you sail along the coastline you can visit some of the coastal towns, but by taking the Göta Canal through Sweden, you get to sail past many more castles, monasteries, medieval churches and to visit picturesque towns. Is it any wonder that the route is often called Sweden's Blue Ribbon?

The afternoon saw us out walking around admiring this lovely town. We were awed by the impressive monastery church, inspired and built by 14th-century Saint Birgitta, Sweden's first female saint. It is full of medieval carvings and early religious icons.




The church is built of local limestone with large windows and simple, unadorned walls with strong pillars. There is a wonderful sense of peace in this church and we both felt that this was possibly the best church we had visited in Sweden. There was something very special about the atmosphere. I was very taken with the wonderful carved altar piece featuring the passion and resurrection in minute detail.




The following morning we awoke to glorious sunshine under the walls of the castle. You can see Lambi's regal bearing in the next photo - she and castles are natural partners I think. Now where is that tiara, I wonder?





Across the water from Vadstena was a little headland with a typical rural scene - cultivated fields and charming, red wooden homes which provided a striking contrast to the medieval, stone buildings that make up the main township here.




This is an ideal town to wander around in as all of the main places of interest are really close to each other. The whole medieval section of the town has been preserved and there are surprises around every corner. It is narrow, winding but also very cosy. In many ways it reminded me of Visby, especially as everywhere you looked you could see an impressive tower in the distance.




In the northern part of town we found Mårten Skinnares house - an unusually well-preserved late medieval house constructed of brick. The builder of this house was a rich tradesman who dealt in furs, copper and skins.




We also visited the convent founded by Saint Birgitta, a dominant and remarkable figure in medieval Sweden who, after marrying at 13 and serving as a lady-in-waiting to the Queen, became prone to religious visions and under royal patronage founded an order of nuns. In Vadstena, her presence can still be felt in a cluster of 14th-century religious buildings.




We thoroughly enjoyed walking along all of Vadstena's twisting cobblestoned streets, past quaint antique shops and tiny cottages covered with climbing roses. The main shopping strip still has the old buildings intact, all being used as modern shops. I came across the old Apotek (chemist) and was surprised to see that it was still in use. I love to see a town that embraces their roots like this and encourages both the preservation of their heritage as well as making it a living town, not just a museum piece.




We had fika in the main town square where a flock of cheeky sparrows jostled at the tables and around the benches for crumbs. They were so sweet that many people were entranced by them and happily crumbled up cake or biscuits to feed these tiny birds. They showed no sign of fear and were bold enough to come up very close for their tidbits.




The sunny conditions continued and we spent an enjoyable but tiring day looking at the town, criss-crossing here and there and wandering along any street that looked promising. The patterns of light and shade were very inviting and everything was so well looked after that it was a pleasure to be there.




Everywhere you looked was a wealth of narrow, twisting streets and beautifully preserved houses, with the tower of the abbey church visible in the skyline from almost any vantage point.




We had not known what to expect from the town, so we were very pleasantly surprised at its beauty and very impressed with the care that was shown in its preservation. It is really like stepping back in time and the view of the skyline with the abbey tower and castle demonstrate that here was a focal point for ecclesiastical as well as secular power over the centuries.




After studying the charts and noting the wind forecast for the next few days, we have decided to head northwards towards the archipelago region of the lake. As beautiful as the townships have been, we are missing the freedom of laying by anchor in a nature harbour and waking up to the gentle sound of lapping water and birdsong. So it is farewell to the towns and sailing northwards towards the belt of islands we can make out in the far distance.