Sunshine continues today as we set off in brisk winds through the ground-filled archipelago north of Oskarshamn. The blue skies and clear, cool air make for pleasant sailing and we get more of a chance to look around here than we did last year, when we sped downwind, frantically reducing sail in a strong gale and overcast conditions. That time we just had to hang on for dear life as the sea markers raced towards us. Today we can glide by at a more leisurely pace, taking the time to look at the islands and simply enjoy being out on the water.




One tricky thing with this stretch of coast is that we have to change charts three times in the course of this tight route. Not only does the actual chart change, but also the scale of the chart which can be confusing at the best of times. One gets used to estimating distances based on chart measurements and it can take some time for this tired old brain to register the changeover. Still, I'm aware of all of that from last year's dog's breakfast, so I am prepared with our stick-on marker for the chart as well as all charts ready ion their correct order. I've told Lars-Göran that I'll change them over in good time and will also mark exactly where we are - he'll have to trust that I am right as there really is no time to stop and have a discussion in such a twisting, shallow waterway.

We make excellent progress, happily chatting while we sail along the islands and skerries and before long, we catch sight of the nuclear power station up ahead at Simpervarp.




Oskarshamnsverket, or OKG has three reactors. Reactor 1 began in 1972, reactor 2 two years later and the third reactor came into operation in 1985. When all three reactors are working together, they produce approximately 10% of Sweden's electricity needs. You can see this plant from far out in Kalmarsund, especially reactor three with its 100m high chimney. It is an important employer in the area, with around 1,000 directly employed at the plant and a further 2,000 benefitting indirectly.

Today, we saw that M/S Sigyn was in port, collecting radioactive waste for transport to Forsmark for storage. This distinctive ship was specially built for just this purpose and it is the first time that either of us have seen her.




Just past the power station, we say goodbye to the rocky inner route and head out into the open waters of Kalmarsund for the short hop up to the lighthouse at Kråkelund, where Misterhult's archipelago begins. It is calm out on the water and for once the prevailing winds are on our side, easing the boat effortlessly through the water and towards our chosen night harbour in a protected but shallow bay near Ålö.

It can be hard to convey the real boost we feel as we pass this point. So often we have been here when the waters are rough and unforgiving and we always feel a sense of relief and safety when we come in behind the protection of these islands and know that we are safe from the Baltic's fury. While today, it is calm and serene, we never forget that these waters can be dangerous and Kråkelund is one of our favourite "safety points" along the coast. The familiarity of the place is very reassuring.




The archipelago of Misterhult is situated between the archipelagos of Oskarshamn to the south and Västervik to the north. It begins in the small town of Figeholm and winds northwards to the little fishing village of Händelöp. It offers all kinds of sailing experiences, from coasting along in the open sea as well as many alternative routes which take you between forest-clad islands near the mainland or along more exposed small, rocky islets and skerries on the outskirts of the archipelago. The very best time to be in this area is August, when the water still is warm, most of the bird sanctuaries are accessible and there are lots of juicy, sweet blackberries to be picked on the islands. We are a little late for all of that - the birds are gone, the berries consumed and the water is cooling down, but still it is very beautiful.




This is another area that we have not fully explored. The archipelago spreads out over a wide area, but we find that when we are here it is often on the way to somewhere else, so we earmark it for another time. I think that one summer soon, we are going to have to spend some time really looking around from St Anna's archipelago down to Misterhult. There appears to be so much to discover.

The weather in this part of Sweden has been quite warm lately, so we are finding that the wildflowers are still out blooming on the islands. I said to Lars-Göran that looking at a circle of small skerries, each full of wildflowers was as though the east coast was welcoming us home with a giant lei. He thought he'd rather have the hula girls to welcome him home! There's just no pleasing some people *grin*




The weather forecast in the morning spoke of the dreaded kuling (gale force winds) again. We had planned to perhaps take the dinghy and visit the forests on the islets around here, but that sounds less appealing in a gale, so we thought we might head northwards instead. That is not as foolish as it sounds. The winds are coming from the west, i.e. from the land, so there won't be big waves to contend with and we are taking an inner route just to be safe. As an added precaution, we also reefed in the main sail. We have no fixed idea of where we'll stop, but hope to at least make it to somewhere in the Västervik archipelago.

Despite the reduced main and a small storm sail, we made excellent progress and in a mere four hours we had covered over 20 nautical miles, by passing Västervik and the lighthouse at Storkläppen. At times, the boat was coasting along at almost 7 knots, which feels good after her sluggish performance in lighter winds. In the afternoon, we find ourselves in Tjust's archipelago the pretty island community of Städsholmen came into view. This was a former pilot station, which closed in the 1960s after nearly 350 years, but the look-out tower and houses still remain.




We stayed here for a few days three years ago and really enjoyed it. We came upon it back then just as we were looking for a place to stay for the night. We had dismissed a few of the islands (see how spoiled for choice we suddenly are!) then we sailed up the little sound and round the corner to find that we were in a magical, pretty lagoon flanked by a tiny settlement of ten or so red fishermen’s cottages on a craggy wild island. I remember that it was so peaceful and calm. However, today, in these strong winds, it is simply too exposed a location. If the wind direction should alter a few degrees, we may find ourselves in trouble. As we have good winds, we will keep on going north at least until we have listened to the weather report.

The route winds around the islands again as we approach the idyllic fishing village of Stora Grindö.




They have a fabulous location, right on the main route and in summer there would be the sight of constantly passing boat traffic. Today it is eerily quiet, with hardly a boat in sight. Earlier in time, this was a very important fishing area. These days, there are only the cottages left, which are used as summer houses. They give an idea of what the place would have looked like in its hey day. There is a popular smokery, which sells both fresh and smoked fish with its own mooring pier and busy boat traffic, but it is closed today, so all is quiet as we pass by.




The afternoon weather report is not promising. They are predicting increasing winds in this area - hård kuling, which is classed as a "fresh gale" in English. It sounds like a good day to stay put somewhere safe.

Just a little further on we came to the outer island of Väderskär (Weather Skerry), which was another of those little, very old communities that I wanted to visit. We have passed by several times and often wondered about the pretty wooden cottages high on the rocks.




We approach the island and even see that the SXK buoy is available if we want to moor there. However, it is quite open to the sea and the winds are driving the waves into the bay. I can only imagine that this will increase as the wind speed picks up. In addition, it is going to rain tomorrow, so it is perhaps not the best day to choose to visit the island. We had been curious to see it because a movie based on one of Strindberg's books "I havsbandet" was filmed here in the seventies and I wanted to particularly see the tiny chapel dating from the eighteenth century which apparently has interesting painted motifs on the walls and ceilings.

I think that it will have to wait for another time. We need good shelter for tonight and possibly tomorrow and so we choose to turn more inland to a group of islands between Sundholmen and Långö-Häfsö, which prove to be beautiful, unspolied, ground free and with plenty of choice for safe mooring spots. We search around and dither here and then, finally hitting a quiet little bay that gives us shelter from the winds. It is so quiet here with not a soul around, just the occasional deer on the shore and the sound of the wind moaning in the trees.

It's ideal weather to curl up with a good book and I think that's what I'll do. I have so many books that I bought in Kalmar, Färjestaden and Mönsterås that it's hard to choose where to start. This is the kind of dilemma that I love. Now I'm off to check my on-board library.