What a glorious morning. Sunshine, gentle breeze - it's absolute paradise and on mornings like this I feel full of energy and ready to begin another day. The sun was really glittering off the sea and there was not a ripple in the calm still water. It was instant unwind time as I lazed on deck, spent some time watching the fish flouncing around and the ducks floating by. It`s such a pleasure to wake up on this kind of morning, when the view from the window is like this.




There isn't much better in life than sharing a beautiful sunrise and a crisp, calm water view with your loved one. It put us in such a positive frame of mind, that we felt like making the trip to Rödlöga and so packed up early and headed out around the island of Blidö. Once out on the open water, we found that we had to tack again, but the wind was brisk so that was okay. However, the wind was ice cold, so we were forced to dress very warmly, including woolly hats and gloves - IN JULY!

It started to get a bit boring zig zagging back and forth in the wide fjärd, so we thought we'd try out a shallow route through Svartlöga. I made us some killer sandwiches to munch on and fortified with steaming hot, strong coffee we spent the next couple of hours winding our way through this little used old route while everyone else was busy tacking out on the open water (how boring for them!)




It is so peaceful here with little or no boat traffic and just a few gulls here and there on the unusual striped rocks. The place is actually on the route for the taxi boats that ply their trade in the northern end of the archipelago, and apparently has excellent swimming spots. The name of the island comes from the fact that it is covered with a forest of dark conifers which look black (svart) from a distance.

Svartlöga has an interesting history, being inhabited by several dozen families since the Middle Ages, who made their living by fishing, seal hunting and boat building. Apparently this island was one of the few that did not suffer from the Russian looting in 1719. The Russian ships actually ran aground on the many reefs around the island. Then the island people, experienced from hunting seals could then easily pick off the crew with their rifles. Be warned - these are tough people!

It wasn't long before the glittering red cliffs of Rödlöga came into view and we started to look for a place to moor. We had a spot that we liked, but thought of trying something new and wandered here and there, rejecting one bay as there was a motor boat moored just where we wanted to be, then another bay which was in direct line for the huge swell created by passing tour boats several times a day, and yet another place where it was too shallow for our boat. In the end we retraced our steps and took the little bay on the east side where we stayed two years ago. We get a nice open view there and best of all, we can be alone.




While returning, I saw a boat towing water skiers, with real sea dogs onboard. I tried to interest Lambi in this, pointing out how engaged the dogs were, how they stood out in the fresh air, alert and joining in the fun. She merely yawned, inspected her long nails, then turned three times on her cushion and went back to sleep in her basket! Talk about a lazy dog.

The evening was sublime, with light breezes, a comforting view of the lighthouse at Hundskärsknuv, the gentle lapping of the water on the rocks, good food and wine and a sense of joy that we were out in the landscape that we both love.




After a restful night, we took the dinghy for a trip into the little village on the island. It was a sunny day, but quite cold in the wind (what is it with the cold wind this year?) In some ways I was glad that it was a little milder. Last time we were here it was very hot and Lambi really suffered in the heat, panting and looking quite distressed, even though we were carrying her. There was also a snake sighting that L-G tried to stop me seeing, so a cooler day was welcome for more than one reason.




For some unknown reason, we were here quite early, which is not like us at all. People had not yet stirred for the day and we could sit on the rocks above the little café and look over the still bay and enjoy the peace and calmness of the early morning. Later in the day, the day trippers from the mainland would start to arrive and the island would become very busy. But now we could just sit and watch the gulls feeding.




After a while there were signs of life on the piers. There were families loading up their boats for a day out fishing or a picnic and swim on a small island out in the archipelago. The little petrol station opened and there was a flurry of boat traffic to fill up their tanks. But all this was happening at a distance and it was interesting to just sit and observe it all.




We thought it was time to make a move and go for a walk around to see some of the island outside of the village. We looked back towards the little café, named "The Gull" (Truten). It is a lovely old building set on the sea front with outside chairs set up and is open in the summer months between 12 noon and 6pm. Like a lot of the businesses on Rödlöga, it is friendly, low-key and relaxing. It all helps add to the atmosphere of being on holidays and unwinding in a stress-free place. They do it so well here.




We walked out of the main village and towards the woods and cliffs on the eastern part of the island. The houses we passed were lovingly cared for, freshly painted and with beautiful gardens and of course the glittering water as a backdrop. There are quite a few holiday homes dotted here and there on the island, but the presence of so many people does not disturb one at all. There is still a sense of privacy and tranquility about the island that makes it one of my favourite places to visit.




The island has no roads, only indistinct pathways which wind their way through the leafy forests and over the rocks. We followed one of these towards Seglarberget (the sailor's hill) which is where most boats who visit the island moor for the night. From the top of one of the hills, we peeped between the trees and we could see Fiona's mast far away on the other side of the island. Her flag was starting to flap, which meant the wind was picking up out there and we could perhaps sail again later today. Yippee.




Around the corner we emerged from the still, cool forest to the sunny rocks packed with boats. You can see why we avoid this place - it's no fun being moored so close to one another that you can hear them floss their teeth in the morning. But Swedes seem to like it and the minute they see a boat tied up, they tie their boat right next to it, even if the rest of the bay is free. It does not look as packed as it did last night because several boats have already left and today's contingent have yet to arrive.




There are several gaps between the boats because in some places, it is extremely shallow as you can see on the next picture. While it may stop you getting a boat neighbour (though a motor boat may brave it), this sort of place can be dangerous if the wind changes and you find yourself being pushed into the rocks. We also saw a tour boat pass by and illustrate why this is a place to avoid - it sent huge waves into the shore and people had to leap out of their boats and try and hold them off the cliffs. As the boats pass many times a day, you could never afford to leave them, or to relax your vigilance. Give me a peaceful anchor spot with 360° of freedom any day.




We made our way back through the forests towards the main village again as Lars-Göran has an unfailing nose for icecream and he had spotted the big GB signs (the Swedish equivalent of Australia's Street's Icecream) on the way out and had figured that the shop might be open by now. Which it was, with the fruit and vegetables arranged under a tent outside in the shade of a big old oak tree.




The selection here is surprisingly varied, though the prices were eyewatering. What do you say about apples at 40kr ($7) a kilo? Ouch! I bypassed the apples, but did get some red onion, fresh potatoes, garlic, lettuce and tomatoes. And yes, I bought him his precious Magnum White (how can he eat that stuff?) We had hoped to tie Lambi under a tree, leave her a bowl of water and go in and shop together, but she carried on like a pork chop, yelping as though she was being torn apart by rabid wolves so I went in alone and Lars-Göran stayed out with her and observed the people milling around. It really is a meeting place for the island's inhabitants, with a buzz of life, kids playing and a friendly summery atmosphere.




Just across the way was the little second hand book shop where you could pick up some summer reading for just a dollar or two, or even swap your books for some other books. What a great idea and again, a business that is useful and run in a friendly and low key manner.




Loaded up with our few groceries, we sat and had coffee and biscuits in a shaded spot towards the little harbour, looking out at a house with a display of glorious red roses and stately delphiniums swaying gently in the wind, their blooms creating a lush tapestry of brilliant colour. They were highly perfumed and I drank in the fragrance and enjoyed their vibrant display.




We chatted idly about whether to stay or to move on. As the winds were picking up again, we thought it might be fun to sail and see where we landed. The morning forecast had spoken of rain and strong winds overnight (hard to believe in this sunshine) and we were not keen to get caught a second time so far out from a safe harbour, so we decided to go back to Fiona and make her ready to sail. We enjoyed this little trip to Rödlöga and felt content and happy to head somewhere new.

We were lucky that we could sail halfwind, so the journey westwards was fast and quite a change from yesterday. We made it to where we had left the day before in record time, so we thought we could sail on while we still had the energy and will to do so and see where we ended up. It was a lovely sunny evening and we loved gliding between islands, which were surprisingly devoid of boats. Where was everyone? We did catch sight of the elegant steamboat Blidösund, which we used to see when she brought tourists to Nynäshamn for the Christmas markets.




The evening weather forecast was for almost gale force winds again, so we were thankful that we'd left the relatively exposed mooring place at Rödlöga and had the chance to find a nice sheltered bay to wait out the weather. We looked at the charts and saw that we were quite close to the pretty island of Ängsö, where we had stayed for several days a couple of years ago. We were keen to look at the island again, so off we went and by seven in the evening, we were safely anchored in a sheltered bay near the guest piers, sipping on Aussie shiraz and enjoying our dinner, with this view around us.




Come on wind, do your worst. We are happy to sit here and enjoy ourselves, knowing that the boat is secure and that the island is but a short row away. Life is good.