A couple of nights ago, we woke up at around 3am because it had started raining and the hatch above our bed was open and we were getting wet! Having fixed that, we lay awake and listened to the wind which had really increased - so much so that Fiona was rocking. I just can't get over how unstable the weather is this summer. Where are the days of no wind or gentle breezes? (mind you, I'd probably still be complaining that there was not enough wind in order to sail). And the rain! It is raining every day, which does nothing to improve my mood.

Anyway, while we were mulling over all of this, we heard a banging mast (not ours, thank goodness), followed shortly by someone banging on one of those metal mooring wedges people here use to attach to the rocks. Lars-Göran went up for a sticky beak and saw that the change of wind and wave direction had caused problems for one of the boats tied up to the cliffs. The boat was banging into the rock face, so the crew along with the crew of a neighbouring boat were frantically trying to adjust the moorings - in the middle of the night in howling winds and driving rains. Poor bastards.

Yesterday was grey, cheerless, gloomy and dreary. We did a few things on the boat and talked a bit about our disappointment that this weather was restricting us. Usually if we were in an archipelago of 364 islands, we'd be exploring them, but the rain and gales do not really make that possible. These islands, which were so gorgeous when we visited them two years ago in blazing sunshine, look dull and melancholy.

We had a sleepless night last night as the wind was unbelievable, howling like a banshee and we were listening constantly to all of the shakes, rattles and other noises trying to judge if the boat was in any danger. It was a real worry and caused us more than once to contemplate moving from such an exposed place. It is often written that the outer islands, while beautiful offer very little protection if the weather turns nasty.

But this morning, it was sunny and relatively calm so we drew up anchor and moved the boat round the corner and into what we hope will be a better and more tranquil spot just two nautical miles further south. I took the opportunity to wash our sheets and towels and left them out on deck to dry.




It hasn't been easy to get decent drying weather this summer, so I grab these days when I can. Lars-Göran is feeling the effects of lack of sleep and a sore throat that he's having trouble shaking off. I can see that a day of rest and relaxation is in order and I believe I know just the place we can go. I had spotted it when we came in yesterday and thought to myself "What a fantastic snooping spot", so I prepared a picnic basket, studied the chart until I was sure of the place I wanted and we took off in the dinghy.

It is amazing what a dose of sunshine will do to one's mood as well as the surroundings. What looked so uninviting in the overcast weather of the last days now glitters and shines in the sun. People in the small houses on the main island were out enjoying the day as well.




A few birds were also taking advantage of the weather and it was gratifying to see the gulls wheeling and the terns out fishing. On one of the little skerries we we saw a baby wagtail (sädesärla) taking its first tentative steps. While it is a different colour to Australia's own dear little willy wagtails, it is just as charming and its movements are almost identical and they are just as inquisitive and chatty. They really are sweet little birds and sighting this one gave us a lift.




It seems that people are on the move today and I noticed that along the main route through the islands there was a steady stream of boats heading in and out. This island group is perfect for cruising around. There is only inhabited island, surrounded by hundreds of smaller ones only large enough in some cases for a smattering of wildflowers. And all of this arranged in an intricate maze that is both challenging and quite beautiful. It really is an extraordinary landscape.

I really love it that being out in the archipelago is not just something exclusive, reserved only for the wealthy or famous but instead has become an experience shared by people from all walks of life - during these peak summer months the area is full of holidaymakers from the city, who fill the cottages and homes of the islands and sailing boats cruise the waterways in between.




I was exactly right about the perfect snooping spot. Lars-Göran had been a bit sceptical (oh yea of little faith!) Of course he had been busy navigating and trying to avoid hitting other boats while I had time to be a tourist on the way through the other day and this little tongue of land, nestled between the rocks and lying just above water level was quite striking. I knew he'd love it - and he did!




We set up our folding chairs, the dog's basket, broke out the coffee thermos and lunch and began with the serious task of checking out everything going on from our front row seats. For those of you familiar with Stora Nassa, this islet is just as you pass Grytan and directly east of Hustrun. On the chart you'd see a group of three elongated islands, linked by a few smaller rocks. Well, this is one of the rocks. It gave us a view of the main route and all of the passing traffic, a view of the houses on Stora Bonden and a chance to see boats attempting to moor to the cliffs at Stor-Sprängskäret (and make a complete dog's breakfast of it). Lambi, as you can see, is more interested in seeing if I am collecting more food from the dinghy. For a dog who only weighs three and a half kilos, she manages to pack away an amazing amount of tucker.




And what could be more perfect than enjoying a coffee break (fika) while watching the passing parade and enjoying the rare appearance of sunshine. As luck would have it, we were sitting in shelter from the wind, so we could even fool ourselves that it was warm and for the first time this summer we were without our jacket and could walk on the rocks barefooted. It must really be summer now. Lars-Göran dipped his foot in the water and tried to convince me to do the same, but I saw his grimace of pain, so I guessed the water was probably still arctic so I declined.




It was lovely to just laze the day away in the sunshine. We both felt uplifted and lighter than we had in the morning. That's figuratively speaking of course, as we were no doubt heavier, having scarfed an indecent number of Anzac biscuits. Around us the birds glided, the breeze wafted through and the water glittered. I love being by the sea, gazing out at the horizon and simply watching nothing. Just being. Lying on a rock, or even better in the sand, running my fingers through it and listening to the waves breaking gently on the shore. We even had a visit from a frog. Or is it a toad? How can you tell? Actually it looks a bit warty, so I guess its a toad.




Lars-Göran dared me to kiss it to see if it changed into a handsome prince. I told him that I already had my handsome prince and I fluttered my eyelashes at him, so he made appropriate vomiting noises. Aren't we romantic?

We decided to walk around the island - well just the two of us as Lambi in true Lisa Douglas style refused to budge from her shady, cushioned basket.

A couple of nesting terns gave us the hairy eyeball, but we knew to keep far away from their territory, though I was curious to see if they had a cute, fat, fluffy chick. I stood on my toes burt couldn't see anything. The flowers were out again making a colourful display along with the peculiar orange/yellow lichen that you find out here. There is no doubt that there has been a real burst of wildflowers this summer, perhaps reflecting the wet, mild weather.




Down at the water's edge I found more little clumps of aster growing right in the brackish sea. It's amazing that they grow in such conditions, but grow they do and seem to thrive really well. It is a very agreeable surprise to see just how many wildflowers are growing here. I absolutely love wildflowers, so a sight like this is such a wonderful treat for me.




It is so relaxing to walk along the beach, listening to the sound of the softly breaking waves, breathing in the fresh sea air, feeling the gentle warmth of the sun on our backs and to not meet another soul. Sheer bliss.

By now, it was late afternoon and people were beginning to drift in and look for a more private mooring space than the popular bays mentioned in the nature harbour books. If one is brave, you can usually squeeze between the rocks and get your own perfect slice of paradise - but it takes nerve. I saw a single yacht go behind the little islet we were on. The crew were studying their chart carefully to see if they dare bring their boat in closer. I'm not so sure that it will work as there are several shoals near the shore and in fact after going on ground a couple of times, they moved on in their search and we wandered back to see if we could coax some life out of our lazy poodle.




Near our picnic basket I came across a little clump of flowers that contained an amazing number of different plants. Gosh, I love this place. It's especially lovely as I came upon this plethora of wildflowers unexpectedly and only a few metres from the sea. Again, it is beauty in a surprisingly harsh, exposed environment.

When I think of a beach, I think of white sand, seaweed and maybe a few lovely rounded pebbles. But never wildflowers. In the part of Australia where I come from, absolutely nothing grows either on the beach or very close by. It's only in the sand dunes, far back from the actual shoreline, that you'd find some very tough plants and grasses but not much else. So in Sweden, I am in wildflower heaven.




Reluctantly, we decided to head back to the boat to take in the laundry and listen to the all important wind and weather forecast on the VHF. The wind is beginning to freshen again, so this tiny glimpse of warm, still conditions may already be coming to an end. We took a meandering route around the maze of islands and often came across a small boat tied up in their own little place. I tried to memorise any good spots and check on the chart whether Fiona's draught would allow us to use the same spot at another time. This little boat had a fantastic place, which was just as well for them as the whole family were prancing about the island totally starkers. Hmmm... nope, it's not really my scene. It's too bloody cold, for a start!




Soon we glimpsed the tell tale view of our laundry flapping in the wind and saw that Fiona was safe and sound where we had left her (by Bredskärsharan if you know the area). We could hear the birds chirping away in the cockpit as well. I wonder what the native birds think of their Bruce and Sheila’s exotic chirping. The boat looked so funny viewed from this angle on the other side of the rocks. And I can also spy another mast sticking above the rocks, though it was on the other side of our island. We were careful to pick a place that was really only big enough for one sailing boat.

As you can see, there are also plenty of flowers to enjoy over here as well so I can still savour their beauty all evening.




Unfortunately, the short term weather forecast was not good. I can’t believe that we’ve had just the one day of good weather and already overnight another group of cold fronts will move in, bringing rain and gale force winds. We think we’ll be okay tucked up in here, but it is annoying to have to spend yet another day “waiting out the weather”. It feels a lot like the siege conditions we endured on the west coast last year and which we were less than keen to repeat.

I can see that this news was a real body blow to poor Lars-Göran, which is a shame after the relaxing day we‘ve had today. Now we must think of securing the boat properly for storm conditions i.e. rowing out a second anchor and perhaps even attaching extra ropes to land to keep Fiona fixed in one position. There is limited room for her to swing in this bay as we have seen several reefs off both the port and starboard side. But really, it is the thought of being cooped up under sufferance inside for a day that is getting to L-G. He feels the winter darkness so much more than I do and he longs for the sailing season with a childish joy that is really infectious. He adores being on the boat, being his own boss and most of all the feeling of freedom that comes with it. And part of the joy comes from being out in the sun and sailing along feeling the warm wind on his skin. This summer has been mostly sailing in cold winds, rugged up in oilskins and rubber boots. This is okay occasionally as no place can be perfect (well, except Australia, as I keep telling him!), but we don't want to be dressed in wet weather gear all summer.

Well, we'll just have to endure it for a few more days and hope that some of the warmth from the Med floats up this way. I keep thinking of my Aussie internet friend Sue, who lives in Corfu in the blazing sunshine and wondering why we don't sail down to see her and freeload enjoy her hospitality. Maybe one year....

I am determined to stay positive and cheer L-G up. After all, vast stretches of blue sea with limited humanity around us, really makes the archipelago a paradise, so we are so lucky to have the opportunity to be able to explore it all. Sunshine is the absolute icing on the cake, but I'd happily make do with just the cake, wouldn't you?