Luckily for me, I keep a copy of Gästhamnsguiden on the boat. This is a guide to all of the guest harbours in Sweden. While we rarely stay in any of them, the guide is a mine of additional about sights around the area, plus facilities like location of banks, shops, petrol station etc. We consulted the booklet and searched for the closest location of someone selling propane refills. We found a place not too far away - Lagnöströmmen. Hmmm... why does that place sound familiar?

We fished out the sea chart and discovered that it was on the island of Norra Finnö and about 2kms from Mon where my mother-in-law rents a summer house. And where we have spent some time both last summer and a couple of years ago. The organisation in Sweden who helps those people paralysed as a result of accidents (his mum broke her neck and back on the ferry to Finland 24 years ago) is called RTP. And they have cottages to rent (including this one at Mon), especially set up for those wheelchair bound. We had no idea that we were so close and we wondered if we would pay her a surprise visit. To actually get to Mon (pronounced Moon) is a bit complicated as it is on the other side of the island and there is only one way in to the area, threading our way between stones and shoals. But Lagnöströmmen is on the same side as we are and will only take us an hour of combined sailing and motoring. The only strange thing we note on the chart is that we must pass under a bridge with a height at high water of 15m. Our mast is 15m, plus a 1m high VHF antenna. Will we fit under? And we try and remember that bridge. We've driven over it many times and it seems much higher - surely at least 30m! We decide that we'll see if we can get under the bridge, get the propane then give mother a ring and see if L-G's brother will come and collect us and we'll have coffee with them all.

It is a beautiful morning - sunny, warm and a perfect breeze for our journey. We also had a visit from some of Bruce and Sheila's friends. We put the birds out in the cockpit and their chattering brought a flock of terns to the boat. They sat on the rails, softly tweeting and nibbling at the breakfast crumbs I left for them. There were about 10 birds aboard for about 15 minutes. I went inside and tried to sneak a picture of them but L-G likened my efforts at being quiet to "a herd of elephants" (as if he even knows what a herd of elephants dounds like!) and I only managed this pathetic effort. You'll have to imagine the other nine birds *grin*



Stop laughing. I bet you couldn't do any better! Lars-Göran kept making cracks about expecting a call any minute from National Geographic or even from David Attenborough needing an outstanding nature photographer for his new series. Man, is he learning to be a sarcastic Aussie really fast.... I'm going to have to watch this closely.

After he stopped laughing we set off. It was lovely sailing, if somewhat difficult in places to navigate (especially with our comic depth meter refusing to function when we really needed to know). Not for the first time was I envious of those fortunate people with cottages right on the waterfront.



In no time at all, we found ourselves at the bridge. And despite our belief that the low height was a serious misprint in the chart, you can see it was a pretty close call.



It is so deceiving when you look at it from land. You would believe that a huge super tanker could easily fit under it, but from down here, it is really quite low. We were relieved that we made it or we would have had to return the way we came. There is a lovely cafe on the other side of the bridge, a small pier, petrol station and yes, they have propane. Yippee!



We ring up my sister-in-law and they are delighted and surprised and agree to come by straight away and pick us up, arriving about 10 minutes later. It's a hot, sunny day and so we all enjoy fika outside on the lawn in front of the stuga.



We have obviously chosen the very best time to go out sailing. The weather this summer has been very so-so - below average temperatures and quite wet. But this week so far has been warm and sunny. It never gets really hot here in Sweden. I once looked up the highest and lowest recorded temperatures here. The warmest temperature was on 26th June 1947, when it reached 38C in Målilla (a tiny place in Småland, about 300km south of Stockholm). I giggled at that. I mean to say, 38C would hardly raise a sweat in Adelaide in summer. On the other hand, the lowest temperature record is held by Vuoggatjålme in Lappland where it plummeted to -53C on February 2nd 1966. I can't even begin to grasp how cold that would be and am thankful I don't live ANYWHERE near there.

Lambi is also enjoying her time on land, finally sneaking away to roll joyfully in something grotty. Luckily it's so warm we can easily bath and dry her!



Mother's stuga is right on the water with a lovely view of the small boat pier, guest harbour, bay and surrounding islands. She loves coming here each year and looking at the sea - it is such a change for her from her usual urban setting in Stockholm.



She is really keen for us to spend some time with her and L-G's brother and his family, so we agree that we'll spend the afternoon sailing around the island and park the boat at the Mon guest harbour. It is a quaint, quiet little spot and very cheap to moor at. These few days here will give us a chance to take a look at the furlex that is giving us some headaches as well as give us time with the family. And it will give Lars-Göran's poor hands a bit of rest. While they are looking better, he keeps irritating them by touching wet ropes and they are looking a bit raw again.

Mille drives us back to the boat and we take off again, carefully charting our way around Norra and Södra Finnö. The island is a popular holiday place, with several towns devoted to caravan, camping and summer visitors. But there are still areas that are farmland - mostly grain crops.



As we round the lowest point of the island at Tyrislöt, we are joined by a flotilla of kayaks. This is a very popular way to holiday in the archipelago. You get a marvellous view of the skerries and just pick and choose an island to camp on for the night. The people in this group were all quite old - certainly in the over 65 age group and I admired their stamina and energy. They paddled in a group and had no trouble keeping pace with our boat.



This area is so peaceful and tranquil. It makes a nice change from the busy Stockholm archipelago where it is sometimes so busy that it is stressful on some routes. Because there are no charted routes into the area, many people are afraid to venture here. I have to say that when I first saw a chart of St Anna, I thought the same thing. But we looked at it very carefully and managed to find a zig-zag way through the shoals. The scenery is lovely and the sense of peace, quiet and solitude is wonderful. We feel really refreshed and alive here.



After six hours, we finally moor the boat and come back to the stuga where we make a communal meal and chat together into the night. Lambi even makes a new friend.



We have had a wonderful couple of days. I’ve spent a lot of time chatting to L-G’s mum, who is in poor health at the moment. She is such a kind hearted person that it is hard to see her suffer so much. She has had constant stomach pains for ages now and I hope she gets someone to take it seriously when she gets home. It was also great to spend relaxing time with all of the family – enjoying meals, wine, conversation and that happy feeling of being totally relaxed in their company. I realise that I’m incredibly lucky to have such supportive and accepting people around me.

We also got to explore a little of the surrounding in the “hot� sunshine. It’s been around 28C which is warm for these parts and you can see that some family members are taking full advantage of it, working on a tan to escape the winter whiteness.



Me? I’m still in long sleeves (albeit it only a lightweight cardigan) as it’s still too cold for my tastes, though the sunshine and brilliant blue skies are welcome. However, I still wish it would get dark at night. I’m sick of going to bed wearing my sunnies!